Seed oils have become a pervasive component of the modern American diet. From corn and soybean oil to canola and sunflower oil, these products appear in numerous processed foods. Many households regard seed oils as a staple item in the pantry. The journey of seed oils to the forefront of American diets was not accidental but rather the result of complex interplay between scientific research, lobbying efforts, potential corruption, profit motivations, and government agency involvement. Read on below to learn more about the history of seed oils in the American diet.
The Early Days
The seed oil industry in the United States began its ascent in the late 19th and early 20th century. Until then, most Americans used animal fats such as butter and lard for cooking and baking. This began to change with the emergence of industrialization and the advent of new techniques to extract oil from seeds.
In the 1890s, German chemist Wilhelm Normann developed the hydrogenation process, which could turn liquid oil into a solid at room temperature. Proctor & Gamble, seeing a market opportunity, used this process to develop Crisco, the first all-vegetable shortening, introduced in 1911. P&G marketed Crisco as a healthier, more economical, and more modern alternative to lard. This was the first significant encroachment of seed oils into the American diet.
Scientific Research and Lobbying Efforts
Post World War II, the increased production capabilities allowed for a surplus of seed crops like soy and corn. This surplus presented both a problem and an opportunity. Industrialists saw the potential for profit in turning these crops into a wide range of products, including oils. However, to accomplish this on a grand scale, they needed to convince the public of the health benefits of seed oils.
In the mid-20th century, a prevailing narrative within the scientific community began to emerge, linking saturated fat to heart disease. The Seven Countries Study, led by American physiologist Ancel Keys, was influential in this shift. Keys suggested a strong correlation between dietary saturated fat and heart disease, which opened the door for alternatives like seed oils, which are high in polyunsaturated fats.
This shift was not without controversy. Critics point out flaws in the methodology of Keys’ study and contend that industry influence may have skewed the results. Nevertheless, the American Heart Association began advocating for a reduction in dietary saturated fats in the 1960s, a stance echoed by other health organizations and government bodies. This gave seed oil manufacturers the ammunition they needed to push their products into the mainstream.
The Role of Corruption and Profit Motivations
Accusations of corruption have dogged the seed oil industry throughout its history. There are persistent claims that scientific research was manipulated or selectively used to support the industry’s aims. In 2016, a historical analysis published in JAMA Internal Medicine revealed that the Sugar Research Foundation (SRF) had sponsored research in the 1960s that downplayed the risks of sugar while emphasizing the dangers of fat. Given tremendous profit motivations, it’s not a big leap to imagine similar tactics being used to promote seed oils.
The seed oil industry, like any other, is motivated by profit. Seed oils, particularly those from corn and soy, are relatively cheap to produce, especially given the massive subsidies these crops receive from the U.S. government. Moreover, they have a longer shelf life compared to animal fats, making them attractive for processed foods. We cannot ignore this economic incentive when considering the ubiquity of seed oils today.
Government Agency Involvement
Government agencies, particularly the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), played a key role in the rise of seed oils. The USDA’s food pyramid, first introduced in 1992, recommended 6-11 servings of grain products daily and placed fats and oils at the top, to be used sparingly. This guidance, along with similar advice from the FDA, created a significant market for low-fat, high-carbohydrate processed foods, many of which use seed oils.
Government subsidies for crops like corn and soybeans, driven by farm-state politicians and agribusiness lobbying, have also played a role. These subsidies make it cheaper to produce seed oils, driving down the cost and making them a more attractive option for food manufacturers.
Conclusion
The rise of seed oils in the American diet has been a multifaceted process, influenced by scientific research, industry lobbying, potential corruption, profit motivations, and government policy. While the health impacts of this shift continue to be debated, there’s no doubt that seed oils have become a significant part of the American foodscape. Any discussion of the value of these substances in our food supply must consider the history of seed oils in the American diet. Future conversations and research should strive for transparency, integrity, and a balanced approach to public health.
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